As the capital of Serbia, Belgrade has plenty of charms to offer at a very reasonable price.
It's also ideally located for exploring Serbia, a destination that is not yet overly touristy.
1. Careful, Serbia is not a member of Schengen area
If you're forgetful like me, you'll have forgotten to check whether Serbia is part of the Schengen area or not. Well, I can tell you that having to show your passport at customs, as well as having to pay an extra 50€ on arrival at Belgrade airport, made me realize this very quickly.
So remember to take a pass for your mobile data and your passport.
But let's move on from these setbacks and talk more about Belgrade and its surroundings...
2. A large park and a fortress at the crossroads of the Holy Roman Empire and the Ottoman Empire
Belgrade was a coveted city on the border between two great empires: the Holy Roman Empire and the Ottoman Empire. It passed from hand to hand.
The fortress on the banks of the Danube is an illustration of this: it has both Central European and Ottoman features (notably, its two round towers).
A special feature of this fortress is the still-functioning church/chapel within its walls. Don't be surprised if, as you wander around, you come across pious women lining up to light a candle.
If you're looking for a really chill place to stroll, unwind and relax, the park and fortress are ideal.
3. Skardajila (Скадарлија)
This typical, touristy cobbled street is home to numerous hotels and restaurants.
It's a must-see for tourists like us. In the evenings, traditional music groups perform in each of the restaurants.
Although a tourist destination, it has a certain charm all of its own. Not to be missed just because tourists go there too often.
N.B.: At the beginning of the street, there's a small traditional bakery/pastry shop that I can recommend. I still remember their cherry cheesecake.
4. Saint-Sava Cathedral
It is the second largest Orthodox church in the world. It is emblematic of Belgrade, although its construction, which took almost 70 years, is recent.
It bears the name of an important figure in Serbian history and the Orthodox religion.
Its imposing appearance gives the impression of being covered in gold inside.
N.B.: If you walk to the cathedral from Skardajila, it's easily an hour's walk. However, you'll still be able to admire a number of charming neighborhoods and streets. After all, it's not the destination that counts, but the route. 😉
5. Nikola Tesla and his museum
Before being a car brand, TESLA was first and foremost an engineer and mustachioed genius who greatly contributed to the adoption of alternating current in electricity distribution networks.
Although he was born in present-day Croatia, he is a Serbian personality, and a museum is dedicated to him, his works and his contributions to humanity. It's not for nothing that you'll find him on magnets in souvenir stores.
Having advanced electricity and electrical engineering, Nikola TESLA also contributed in the fields of radio, X-rays and wireless energy transmission (his most impressive field).
N.B.: Although it fell into disuse at the end of the 20th century, it's back in the spotlight with geniuses like Einstein.
In this museum, you can trace the life of Nikola and his inventions, and play with them.
Beware, there are long queues. It's therefore advisable to come just after lunch, for the first opening hours.
This is fortunate, as there's an excellent Cevapi restaurant not far away. Both hearty and inexpensive, it's much better than a kebab.
5. Museums and Places of Worship
Belgrade being a capital city with a rich history, it boasts numerous Orthodox churches, a few mosques and a synagogue. If you're a lover of historical, religious and cultural sites, you're in for a treat, bearing in mind that we're not used to seeing this kind of building in France.
N.B.: it's worth noting that since the end of the Ottoman Empire, the number of mosques has fallen drastically, as some have been destroyed.
What would a capital city be without its museums? There are many in Belgrade, all of which charge admission. Nevertheless, they're still affordable for French people.
When you enter these museums, you'll feel the communist atmosphere of yesteryear. This feeling is also present when you visit Belgrade's Central Post Office.
Funnily enough, in the National Museum of Serbia, you'll find a mummy.
6. Belgrade et its atmosphere (during the night, but not only...)
As I said earlier, it's not uncommon to find small gypsy orchestras in so-called tourist restaurants.
But there were two things that stood out for me:
the presence of mist, reminiscent of spy films, makes the city intriguing,
youth enjoying every moment.
Here are a few examples of the effect of fog on the photos I took:
If the rendering looks gloomy, I didn't feel oppressed or threatened, as a man traveling alone.
If you ever get the chance to wander around the embassy district (which is a long avenue), then you'll also find Serbian administrative and government buildings. Right in the middle, you'll notice a ruined building. This is, in fact, a reminder of the NATO bombings when Serbia was at war with its neighbors. It's a chilling sight.
7. The Bouquinistes
In Paris, we're familiar with the bouquinistes on the banks of the Seine, but in Belgrade, they sell their treasures from converted vans. You'll find them near certain parks, as shown below.
It's a bit of a change of scenery, and gives tourists an idea of what it was like back in the days of Yugoslavia.
8. Tips for learning Cyrillic
Serbian is written in two ways, following the Latin and Cyrillic alphabets.
If you want to decipher and learn the Cyrillic alphabet fairly easily, all you have to do is look at the street names, as they are written in both alphabets.
Personally, this is the way I've progressed in Cyrillic.
What's more, it allows you to play a little game as you wander around.
Bonus...
Is there a Speakeasy in Belgrade?
I think you've begun to understand what I'm all about: whenever I'm out and about in a big city, I like to try a few speakeasies, so I can get away from it all and enjoy a cosy atmosphere.
Well, there's one I've tried: the Druid Bar. It's not far from the Belgrade fortress, on the edge of the park.
It's in a small, dark alleyway, and its only signpost is a small streetlamp that lights up the entrance to the hidden bar with a faint glow (red or green).
When the light is green, the bar is open. When it's red... you get the idea. However, reservations are required.
If you want to do as I did and surprise the locals, bring them here, because chances are they won't know it. Personally, I had a great time with an ambassador (whom I met on my trip to Novi Sad) and his friend, a retired Serbian TV star.
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