Hong Kong is where the Middle Kingdom meets the West. Towering skyscrapers stand side by side with the few small, traditional neighborhood temples.
Though not blessed with abundant natural resources, its urban jungle is framed by the sea and mountains, offering unique landscapes. Imagine skyscrapers rising before lush green mountains by the sea.
This kind of scenery hints at its openness to the world, the diverse population mix, and the vibrant dynamism of its modernity.
While many overlook Hong Kong, treating it more as a hub, this city and its islands are truly worth exploring.
1. Une ville moderne, dense avec des vestiges du passé
A little bit of history...
Why this investissment from the British?
The world's largest economy has always been China. The Qing Dynasty's Middle Kingdom, being self-sufficient, had no need for Western goods. Meanwhile, Great Britain had a high demand for tea, silk, porcelain, etc. To destabilize the Chinese regime, the British introduced Indian opium into the domestic market, leading to a health and social crisis.
In all of this, Hong Kong had a geographic advantage, being close to trade routes, and could serve as a deep-water port. In short, it was an ideal platform for trade, opium introduction, and military operations.
Once Hong Kong was under British control, its commercial and financial aspects, now heightened, drove its development, shaping the city we know today. It also became a melting pot where East and West converged.
The contemporary Hong Kong
Following World War II, while Hong Kong enjoyed its Westernized outlook, Mao's China underwent its Cultural Revolution. The British colony served as a refuge for numerous intellectuals, artists, and entrepreneurs, particularly from the Canton region. It was partly thanks to this influx that Cantonese opera was preserved. This talent influx, coupled with Hong Kong's already established role as a commercial and financial center, strengthened its position.
However, after nearly 155 years of British rule, Hong Kong was handed back to China (which never considered Hong Kong separate during all those years). This handover was characterized by the famous phrase "one country, two systems". Hong Kong's autonomy was supposed to be ensured. Even today (2024), it remains a special administrative region enjoying privileges compared to the rest of China. You can experience its contrasts and diversity as you wander the streets or engage with locals. (Don't hesitate to do so!)
All cities and neighborhoods across the various islands of Hong Kong have been constructed on mountain slopes and along the waterfront. To accommodate a current population of nearly 8 million residents, verticality was essential. Don't be surprised to encounter towering skyscrapers reminiscent of those in New York City.
N.B.: You will find other elements which are inspired from the USA, such as Times Square, the World Trade Center or even Hollywood Road.
This verticality contrasts with the modest-sized and well-enclosed temples.
1.1. Where can we find d'Hong Kong dynamism
Hong Kong is dynamic, day and night. est dynamique de jour comme de nuit; whatever the day of the week.
Central
As the name suggests, it is the central area of Hong Kong, where various shopping centers, restaurants, bars, and clubs are concentrated. It includes the neighborhoods of Soho and LKF.
Lan Kwai Fong (LKF) & South of Hollywood Road (Soho)
It's the most iconic place to party and celebrate. Perched atop a hill, it has preserved some of its almost-vertical streets, remnants of the past. It's the perfect place to go out.
On the other hand, Soho is a more laid-back neighborhood.
Tsim Sha Tsui (TST)
No, it's not a disease, but rather a vibrant district in Hong Kong located on the Kowloon Peninsula. It hosts museums and various entertainment centers.
You'll also find a seaside promenade adorned with plaques of Hong Kong cinema stars. From this promenade, you can admire the skyline of Hong Kong Island, spanning from Central to Causeway Bay.
N.B.: When you're in TST, don't hesitate to visit one of Hong Kong's tallest towers. From the 100th floor, you'll have a panoramic view of the entire bay—from TST across Hong Kong Island and its famous districts waiting to be explored.
Wan Chai
Located just beyond Central, extending from it, is Hong Kong's former central and chic artery. It also boasts numerous foreign bars and nightlife spots.
This district also offers a waterfront stroll to admire the opposite skyline, located in TST.
From Wan Chai, it's easy to reach Times Square and Causeway Bay as well.
If you're lucky, under the bridges of Causeway Bay, you might witness rituals of black magic. Starting at 50HKD, you can curse someone in your circle! (When I told you they've managed to preserve ancient traditions in Hong Kong...)
⚠️Careful, on Sundays, South East Asia workers enjoy their sole day off to meet at Central and all the parks.
1.2. Where finding traditions and quietness ?
Despite the many neighborhoods for nightlife and day-time enjoyment, Hong Kong also boasts some temples, parks, and gardens where you can enjoy the tranquility.
The main things to experience are:
Chi Lin Nunnery
Located in Diamond Hill, it's a small slice of paradise amidst the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong. This Buddhist monastery, constructed entirely from wood without a single nail, dates back to the Tang Dynasty. Strolling through its peaceful gardens and halls offers a moment of serenity and a beautiful immersion into local Buddhist culture
Nan Lian Garden
Adjacent to the Nunnery, the Nan Lian Garden offers a small haven of peace to recharge amidst the bustling urban life around it. Within its grounds, you can find Buddhist art as well as a highly-rated vegetarian restaurant.
The pavilion remains the iconic monument of this garden. Don't hesitate to go there and relax.
Wong Tai Sin Temple
Iconic place of worship in Hong Kong, the temple is named after the legendary monk. Within this temple, there is a blend of Taoism and Buddhism.
If you want to know your fortune, shake a set of sticks until one falls to the ground. It will reveal your future..
Man Mo Temple
If you want to contemplate a small neighborhood temple, not far from the hustle and bustle of LKF, the Man Mo Temple can delight you. You can admire the coils of incense there.
And if you're feeling a bit hungry and want to experience the fusion of French savoir-faire and Chinese cuisine, I can only recommend the following restaurant: Man Mo Dim Sum (Sheung Wan). You'll be just steps away from the temple, at the foot of a small shopping center and antique shops.
And many other temples and religious sites
Hong Kong being multicultural, rooted in its past and present, you'll find mosques, churches, and even synagogues. In short, Hong Kong can be described as multi-faith.
As for parks, don't hesitate to stroll through Victoria Park, Tamar Park, and many others, both day and night.
My favorite spots are the waterfronts where you can overlook TST or Hong Kong Island.
N.B: In Tamar Park, I was lucky enough to attend an open-air exhibition by TeamLab Tokyo. It was an ephemeral event, and here are a few photos to immortalize it.
2. The ompresence of the nature
Despite its tall buildings, Hong Kong is bordered by jungle and mountains, no matter which island you're on. There are many hiking trails to explore. You can either start flat out, or use public transport to get around.
Many of these trails are well known, such as the one leading to Victoria Peak, Dragon's Back or the one leading to the Big Buddha on Lantau Island.
I didn't get to do the first two, but I did get to do the last one. That's how I can tell you about it in the next paragraph.
In short, Hong Kong offers breathtaking scenery!
3. Visit and enjoy the different islands
Technically, Hong Kong is an archipelago, but also the name of the main island.
Each island is linked by bridge, metro or ferry.
N.B.: To go around, please refer to the blog post on the subject.
Although I haven't had the opportunity to move around the various islands, I'd recommend Lantau. It's quite varied, and it's not possible to do everything in one day.
Certainly you'll land there, but the most impressive thing is to see the Great Buddha, over 29m high and nestling atop more than 200 steps.
To do this, you'll need to visit the Po Lin Monastery. Here you can enjoy a vegetarian meal for under €15, contemplate a Buddhist temple and then tackle the climb up the steps.
N.B.: Beware, oxen can roam freely around this monastery, as well as the path of wisdom.
Following this climb, you'll have the opportunity to contemplate the view of the surrounding Lantau Island.
Once you've done that, don't hesitate to take a look at the Way of Wisdom, even if you don't yet decipher Mandarin.
Lantau Island also offers you the choice of visiting Discovery Bay or Disneyland.
Personally, I was only able to see part of Discovery Bay, where I passed through a Gated Community, making the experience somewhat strange, and quite different from the mix I found on Hong Kong Island or the Peninsula.
Je n'en ai pas eu l'occasion, mais n'hésitez pas à visiter les villages de pêcheurs présents sur Lantau ainsi que les autres îles alentours de Hong Kong.
Conclusion
I haven't had the chance, but don't hesitate to visit the fishing villages on Lantau and the other islands around Hong Kong.
Bonus...
Let's talk speakeasy!
As you know, I love discovering them.
And if you share this little hobby, then Hong Kong is the place for you. When you do your research, you quickly realize that there are over a dozen of them, and that you don't have enough days off on the spot.
However, here are the ones I was able to try out:
Lockdown
Located in LKF (Lan Kwai Fong), this bar has a rather surprising front. It's Penicillin's little brother.
It has a rather original front: a ladder and a toilet seat. Make no mistake: the cocktails are interesting. With a subtle reminder of Asia, despite the predominant use of Western products. The alliance is well made.
All the staff (except the bouncer) can be bartenders or waiters, which makes for interesting exchanges. If you're lucky enough to be positioned at the mixing table, you'll have the opportunity to chat with the bartender who looks after the whole room, and learn more about daily life in Hong Kong.
Red Room
Well-hidden on the 6th floor of K11, a large mall in TST (Tsim Sha Tsui), it's located in a recess with multiple red school lockers. All you have to do is activate the sensor on one of the walls, and a hidden door opens.
Warning: if you don't like red, don't!
The atmosphere is cosy and the view of Hong Kong Island from TST is pleasant. Try to go when it's not raining (unlike me). You can also enjoy cocktails and nibbles.
Takumi Mixology Salon
This is the best mixology experience I've had in Hong Kong. Hidden away upstairs in an unassuming building are a Suki Yaki, a Teppaniyaki and a Japanese bar.
Everyone speaks Japanese, so if you've learned it on a previous trip, you'll be able to put it to good use and shine in society.
The Teppaniyaki is good, although the bill can be steep if you take the chef's menu, but the bar is clearly the best. Japanese flavors are present and subtle.
The atmosphere is hushed and reminded me of an Ebisu bar. Don't hesitate to take advantage.
Double bonus...
Like to swing dance? Don't hesitate to attend the weekly party held every Wednesday of the month at the Fringe (LKF). It takes place at the Fringe Club, and costs around 100HKD (not bad for the local nightlife).
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